Field Welding Skid Steer Attachments: Repair Cracks & Stay Working

Keep Your Attachments Running: The Art of Field Welding

Nobody likes downtime. When you’re out on a job and a crack appears on one of your skid steer attachments, your first thought might be “how fast can I get this fixed?” Sometimes, a field weld is the answer, getting you back to work without hauling gear to a shop. But “fast” doesn’t mean “sloppy.” A good field weld needs to be safe, strong, and durable.

Here at SmithCustomz, we build American-made attachments designed to take a beating, but even the toughest steel can crack under extreme stress or fatigue over time. Knowing when and how to properly repair those cracks in the field is a skill every operator should have.

When to Consider a Field Weld

Field welding is best for:

Small, localized cracks: Hairline cracks or short breaks in non-critical areas.
Non-structural components: Areas like bucket sides, wear plates, or minor breaks in a frame that aren’t bearing primary loads.
Temporary fixes: Sometimes a field weld gets you through the day, allowing for a more robust shop repair later.

It’s NOT for major structural failures, cracks in highly stressed areas (like near pivot points or main frame components), or when the material is unknown or exotic.

Safety First, Always

Before you even strike an arc, safety is paramount. You’re working with high heat, electricity, and potentially flammable materials.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Welding helmet (auto-darkening is great), heavy leather gloves, flame-resistant jacket/sleeves, safety glasses, and steel-toe boots.
Fire Prevention: Clear any combustible materials (dry grass, leaves, fuel lines, hydraulic hoses) from the welding area. Have a fire extinguisher or a bucket of water/sand nearby.
Machine & Attachment Stability: Ensure the skid steer is stable, parked on level ground, and the attachment is securely blocked or resting. Disconnect the battery to prevent damage to the machine’s electronics from stray currents.
Ventilation: If you’re welding in an enclosed space, make sure there’s plenty of fresh air to avoid inhaling fumes.

Assessing the Damage & Knowing When NOT to Weld

Not every crack is a weldable crack. A thorough inspection tells you a lot:

Hairline vs. Deep Crack: Is it just surface rust, or does it run deep? Use a wire brush to clean the area and get a clear view.
Location, Location, Location: Cracks near critical stress points, pivot pins, or in main structural members (like the main beam of a bucket or loader arm) often indicate a larger problem. Welding these in the field can be dangerous, as the repair might not hold up to the original stress.
Material Type: Most skid steer attachments are made from mild steel (A36, A572 Gr. 50) or sometimes abrasion-resistant steel (AR400/500). If you’re unsure of the material, proceed with caution. Some high-strength steels require specific pre-heat and post-weld treatment to prevent cracking.

When in doubt, don’t force it. If the crack is too large, in a critical area, or you’re uncomfortable with the repair, it’s better to seek professional help or consider replacement. For example, if your entire mount plate is compromised beyond a simple crack, replacing it with a new, robust ASV / Terex Blank Mount Plate (Raw) or a Bobcat MT Mount Plate (Raw) from SmithCustomz might be the safer, more durable long-term solution.

Preparation is Key to a Strong Weld

A good weld starts with good prep. Don’t skip these steps:

Clean the Area: Use a wire brush, grinder, or flap disc to remove all paint, rust, dirt, grease, and oil from the crack and surrounding area (at least 1-2 inches around). Contaminants lead to weak, porous welds.
Grind Out the Crack: “V-groove” or “U-groove” the crack. Use a grinder with a cutting wheel or grinding disc to remove the damaged metal completely. You want to create a bevel that allows for full penetration of the weld metal. For thicker materials, bevel both sides if accessible.
Pre-Heat (Optional, but Recommended for Thicker Material): For thicker steel (3/8” or more) or certain alloys, pre-heating the area to around 200-400°F (check with a temperature crayon) can help prevent cracking by slowing down the cooling rate of the weld.

Choosing the Right Rod for the Job

For most mild steel skid steer attachments, you’ll typically use one of two types of stick welding electrodes (SMAW):

E7018 (Low Hydrogen): This is your go-to for strong, ductile welds on clean, thicker material. It produces a smooth, stable arc and low spatter. Requires a dry rod, so keep them in a rod oven if possible. Excellent for final passes.
E6010 / E6011 (Fast Freeze): These rods offer deep penetration and are more forgiving on dirty or rusty metal. E6010 is DC only, E6011 works on AC or DC. Great for root passes where you need to burn through contaminants and get good penetration.

Match your rod diameter to the material thickness and your welding machine’s capabilities. For field repairs, a 1/8” rod is a common versatile choice.

Welding Techniques for a Solid Repair

Once prepped and with the right rod:

Root Pass: Start with an E6010 or E6011 (or E7018 if the gap is tight and material clean) to get good penetration into the V-groove. Maintain a consistent arc length and travel speed.
Fill Passes: Use E7018 for subsequent passes. Layer your beads, making sure each pass fuses well with the previous one and the base metal. Build up the weld until it’s flush or slightly proud of the original surface.
Avoid Overheating: On thinner materials, “stitch welding” (welding short sections and letting them cool) can prevent warping.
Peening (Optional): Lightly tapping the hot weld with a hammer can help relieve stress and reduce distortion, especially on thicker sections.

Post-Weld Care

After the weld cools:

Clean and Inspect: Chip off slag, wire brush the weld. Visually inspect for cracks, porosity, or undercut.
Grind Smooth (If Needed): If the weld is in an area that needs to be flush (e.g., a wear surface), carefully grind it smooth. Don’t remove too much material.
Paint: Apply a good primer and topcoat to protect the weld from rust and corrosion.

When to Call a Pro or Consider Replacement

Sometimes, a field repair just isn’t enough. If you’re facing:

Extensive Damage: Multiple cracks, major tears, or large sections of missing material.
Critical Stress Points: Cracks in the main frame of the attachment, lifting points, or areas that bear significant load (like the main beam of a bucket or a heavy-duty trailer hitch receiver mount that sees constant abuse).
Exotic Materials: High-strength alloys that require specialized welding procedures and equipment.

Don’t risk equipment failure or injury. A professional shop has the right tools, knowledge, and experience for complex repairs. Or, if the attachment is simply worn beyond economical repair, consider investing in a new, durable, American-made replacement from SmithCustomz.

The Takeaway

Knowing how to perform a proper field weld is a valuable skill that keeps your operation running smoothly. Prioritize safety, prep your materials thoroughly, choose the right rod, and apply sound welding techniques. This practical knowledge will extend the life of your attachments and minimize costly downtime, ensuring your SmithCustomz gear, built tough and made in the USA, stays in the fight.